cloth and culture NOW 21:21 context + collaboration through the surface textural space
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Desconocida: Unknown Seminar
University for the Creative Arts, Epsom February 10 2009

Desconocida Seminar

Introduction: Lesley Millar

The Seminar held at University for the Creative Arts, Epsom in the afternoon before the Opening of the exhibition took the theme of Desconocida : Unknown as its starting point. The central element of the exhibition is a wall covered with nametags that have been hand embroidered by participants in workshops in 22 different countries. The ones with coloured thread each contain the name of a woman murdered in Juarez, the nametags embroidered with white thread bear the word ‘Unknown’ in the language of the embroiderer and represent all the unknown women across the world who have suffered similarly.

As each of the attendees arrived for the Seminar they were invited to select a name from the list of the most recently murdered women and to embroider that name during the Seminar. This created a very different atmosphere from that usually experienced during a seminar. The first moments were spent choosing the name and a colour of thread, people then naturally grouped and started to sew. This shared activity, so closely linked to the subject of the event, meant that throughout the Seminar there was a sense of group concentration. Quiet comments, observations and responses were delivered with care and thoughtfulness, following the lead from the three invited presenters who spoke with a moving and perceptive clarity. Attendees were drawn from many different areas including artists, writers, curators, designers, students and many had traveled from different parts of the UK to take part.

At the end of the Seminar the nametags were collected and Lise Bjørne Linnert added them to the Wall in the Gallery in time for the Opening at 6pm.

As Chair I thank everyone who took part – in particular the three presenters and June Hill, who gave the first comments from the floor, again helping to set the tone, and who kindly took the notes that have provided the Summary below. It was a remarkable event.

Desconocida Seminar

Summary: June Hill

Chair: Lesley Millar, Professor of Textile Culture
Presentees: Lise Bjørne Linnert; Lutz Becker; Jane Wildgoose

We have only given the names of the organizers and invited presenters, as this is not a verbatim transcription but a summary. Bullet points indicate new speaker.

Professor Lesley Millar
introduced the seminar by welcoming all present, explaining the structure of the session and encouraging each person to participate in the debate.

Three short presentations then followed, each given by an invited participant whose work had particular relevance to the seminar and its theme of the communication of difficult issues.

Lise Bjørne Linnert
spoke briefly about Desconocida: Unknown– outlining the situation in Ciudad Juarez, and her involvement through the development of the project. There is no official list of the hundreds of women who have been murdered in the area. Of the 89 who were murdered last year, only the names of c20 are known. Lise has obtained names of over 200 women from grassroots activists. She was concerned to not present the women as victims and to create a response that was female and not brutal: something about the lives of these women, not their deaths. She also wanted to draw on the universal issues of abuse of women all over the world. It was ‘not just about them but about us.’

Lise remembered her grandmother embroidering name labels in her clothes. She used this idea as the basis for her project –embroidering the names of the murdered women on individual labels. These labels have been stitched in workshops that have taken place in 22 countries around the world.  Along with the name labels, each person also stitches another label with the word ‘unknown’ – worked in the language and script of their own country. This draws out the universal and local relevance of the issues – documenting all of the unknown deaths that take place in each community.

Engagement was important. The stitching involved people with other people’s lives and formed a relationship.

Lutz Becker
is a freelance documentary film maker. He talked of a recent project that explored the building, and breaking down, of walls. Walls separate people and are both a symbol and cause of conflict. Where there is conflict there is violence and murder. Talking about the fall of the Berlin wall, he remarked of the time when ‘ it was falling in our own minds’– a moment of change prior to its physical destruction, when shifts in perception, understanding and behaviour made the physical change possible. A time when it changed ‘from a physical edifice to a trivial entity.’

He had created a sound sculpture recording the sounds of the Berlin Wall, which had been played as people arrived at the Seminar and he spoke of the context in which this work had been produced . How can a wall make sounds? He recorded the noises of people eroding the edifice with hand chisels, urgently. The Berlin Wall had been made of dense concrete, that had been layered on top with another element that included sensors and wires. The intensity of the destructive activity was  carried along the wall as a percussive sound. He recorded the sounds and then played them at the point at which they were recorded.

Of the wall destruction, he observed, the people’s wish for the wall to disappear and their laying hand on it was a moment of hope – a hope that people would use the occasion to learn from history. But subsequently walls were built elsewhere. Of the wall in Gaza, he observed people had responded by producing films and music but no visual art other than graffiti. Maybe it is too early. He spoke also of the landscape beyond the wall. He concluded by talking about the Clinton Wall built between Mexico and the USA in 1994 which has resulted in 4,000 deaths. ‘It is important to follow the steps of the people who have been murdered. The fact that people embroider is an act of imitation; of the life of the person who has been murdered. It is a label of mourning.’

Jane Wildgoose
is an artist and writer. Her presentation focused on ‘how we as artists communicate difficult things’ and posed the question ‘what is it in my work as an artist that makes me a different communicator from a reporter?’
She spoke of the Indelible exhibition at Fabrica which had examined:

  • How the worst things are communicated (in the media)
  • How does that affect us – the passive, mute response
  • How can we as artists work in a way that draws a response

She spoke of Lockhart’s Principle – the founding father of forensic science- and of his objective, factual and unemotional analysis of the microscopic debris - the stains and traces – that were found at crime scenes and which informed the reports he presented to courts. She compared that with the work of artist Shelly Goldsmith and her concerns to explore female fragility in and through her work. For the Indelible exhibition, Shelly had been paired in the project with forensic scientist Alison Fendly who has worked on a several serious sexual assault cases. Both spoke of the beauty of visual evidence – Fendly deliberately unemotionally; Goldsmith with evocative references of stained garments; working on the senses; using her imagination. Shelly’s work in the exhibition were printed with the emotional stories she wanted to tell – rage, lust, anger – through staining, seeping, laser cutting, ink blots. The work consisted of  garments embedded with emotional stories which was presented in a sterile ‘forensic’ environment.

Another Indelible artist, Carol Hayman, produced a video installation that featured interviews with victims of crimes: played simultaneously – visitors had to get close to each screen to hear the stories and move around the room to follow the stories as they were played across different video players. It was like ‘ a cloud of terrible stories’ that you had to listen to intently to get the whole story.
‘It made me think:

  • how do we communicate the most terrible stories
  • how do we deal with memory (Proust wrote obsessively about his past. Through his senses he is overwhelmed with memory
  • how to we receive the evidence
  • who are the people in control of giving us that evidence
  • what is the role of the artist within that – how do we balance the forensic and the sense

‘We engage our bodies, our whole senses with stories.’

June Hill
I had learned from working on the Rozanne Hawksley exhibition: that her work is challenging as it deals with the most visceral aspects of life. It expresses her ability to look unflinchingly at the difficult aspects of life - drawing from her personal experience and a deep empathy with other people. I have realised in working on the exhibition, that through her work, she challenges us to look with that same unflinching eye. Not everyone is able to do this (reflected in the response to her work). Yet the response is strongest and most direct from those who have known the experiences her work explores.  There is nothing gratuitous in the work. People respond to the honesty and integrity and depth of feeling within the works. (Relates to Jane's point further on). 

At the start I also said that as a curator, I was interested in material culture and the power of objects to convey, express and record events, emotions and ideas. Those where there is a form of recognisable iconography and also those where there is none yet the object draws a profound response which (often unknown) is in step with that which is appropriate to the context of the object/artwork.

Comments in the Open Debate:

  • Embroidery is about rebuilding. It is about documenting, recording, reconstructing. Stitch to reconstruct something of the psyche. About uniting the world community and bringing some element of truth.
  • I work with a reductive vocabulary. Textiles as silent witnesses. Powerful resonances with minimal means. Ambiguity that gives space for the imagination. ‘Its what you don’t know about them that’s powerful.’
  • How things communicate symbolically with intrinsic language; pare down to pure materiality.
  • The narrative is within myself, but I choose not to express that outside. Want to leave it to the imagination.
  • How can one, not in an arbitrary way, place an emotionally or politically charged exhibition within spaces that might not come with that. Need for a strategic framework.

June Hill/Jane Wildgoose:
The need for curatorial integrity in the exhibition of work.

  • Several comments:

Do you ask ‘ who am I to tell that story?’

Lise Bjørne Linnert:
My initial response is ‘what can I do?’
It is about personal engagement and universality. ‘I cannot control – they are telling their own stories.’

  • Interested in narrative worldwide and the ability of textiles to work around the element of censorship. Its wrong to take the intimate and make national statements but textiles have an amazing capacity to take the intimate and make it specific. Respected if not known. Locating it very specific – trace of maker and narrative being told.
  • Several comments:

Cultural memory – ‘where history and subjectivity meet’
Theo Moorman – thinking whilst working (value of process of making)
Relationship of self and other – not easy balance to make.
Textile ability to do so because so many people can and do engage with it – video of people sewing – monument of people sewing.

  • Practicality of embroidery. Still have embroidery done with mother and kept what we brought back from India. I remember the reason why I am doing embroidery – ‘always a reason.’ Remember being sent home from school without name label in school uniform. The poignancy of someone else’s remembrance of a person. The marking of linen with red initials – value the cloth for the memory of the people (unknown). Collect from jumble sales – no idea of person but seems respectful to buy that piece.
  • Recollections of the power of the recitation of names after 9/11and Christian Boltanski’s photographs of unknown people.
  • Placing of people – accumulation; time; duration of project; how built up over time; imbued with our own DNA over that process of time.

Lutz Becker:
Time – when we can confront and come to terms with something
Art and power – narrative and ritual close together. Why we tell each other events; impelled to tell story again and again – repetition – develop into ritual. German equivalents of Victorians met once a week to sin wool and sing songs to each other and produce yarn that they would weave into their bed linen to use throughout their lives. Texture of life and product; warp and weft of events give them meaning. In making of things – also search for meaning and better understanding.

  • As a graphic designer - reproduces evidence of other people’s work. Involved in graphics for Desconocida:Unknown – awareness of what’s going on not in my world at all. Found it frankly shocking. When we met to discuss the book, Lise talked in an objective almost dispassionate way. It informed my approach. I tried to be dispassionate in m design. People need to do something in response to something (run for charity etc) . We need to leave evidence which will always be remembered; that’s why this project is so strong. I designed something that was muted, not overdramatic – let it speak for itself.
  • My concern as a photographer is about engaging. Embroidering a name whilst reading about what happened to the people brings a connection with other people through the workshops. That what I try to communicate through my photographs. What ismy place in telling other people’s stories? I work on an ethic of responsibility. How do you get past compassion fatigue? How do you reach other people?

Jane Wildgoose:
Problem is not in asking the question but when you stop asking yourself that question. What uestions are we asking ourselves? What is the appropriate response as a human being? The ethical response? Feel passionately but question deeply. Where are the boundaries?

Lise Bjørne Linnert:
Desconocida:Unknown – marking the dead, cataloguing them. Nothing about being victims – if things are hopeless – you can do something.
The women don’t need others to speak for them.
Be aware and spread awareness – relevance for self and own community

  • General comments:

Gives us an opportunity to express our horror
Gives us a voice when we might be mute – implications for Gaza. Ability of art to transcend political issues and voyeurism.

  • Textiles to remember and also part of the healing process.
  • When first stitching – start telling stories which incorporate those women as living entities. Building relationships with name in stitching it.
  • Do we focus on the snapshot (of  a tragedy) or what comes after? Events need to be lived out by the next generation, To what degree does art convey that?

Lise Bjørne Linnert:
Important to engage the young. I feel a huge responsibility for the whole project and want to feed it back into the community.

 

 

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